Though the intense soccer showdown between Yangzhou and Huai'an ended on Aug 17, the culinary rivalry between these two cities, both renowned for their Huaiyang cuisine, one of China's four great culinary traditions, continues to captivate.
"Lion's head" meatballs with crab roe in a rich broth. [Photo/yznews.cn]
During the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368–1911), Yangzhou thrived as a hub for salt merchants. To show off their wealth, merchants held extravagant banquets to dazzle guests with rare ingredients, masterful techniques, and culinary innovation.
Huai'an, which once played a vital role in transporting tribute grain via waterways, developed banquets for river workers, emphasizing rare local ingredients and fresh, unadulterated flavors.
Wensi tofu. [Photo/yznews.cn]
Yangzhou cuisine places a strong emphasis on knife skills, exemplified by Wensi tofu. To prepare this dish, silken tofu is cut into hair-thin strands and then suspended in a clear broth, resembling an ink wash painting in its elegant simplicity.
Huai'an cuisine requires precise control of heat and timing, with Pingqiao tofu being a prime example. Tender tofu is cut into diamond-shaped slices and then cooked to perfection, melting in the mouth upon the first bite.
A slap-up morning meal in Yangzhou. [Photo/yznews.cn]
The morning tea ritual in Yangzhou, a legacy of salt merchants, exudes leisurely elegance. Cups of tea, with steam curling upwards, are served with baozi (steamed buns), shaomai (a type of traditional Chinese dumpling), and exquisite dim sum, marking an ideal start to the day.
As a major canal town, Huai'an presents breakfasts that fuse northern and southern tastes and embody ancient craftsmanship, such as golden brown and crispy chasan, traditional Chinese pastries made rolling wire-like strips.